If you step through the towering arches of the Royal Galleries St-Hubert, you’ll be instantly transported—not just into a grand arcade of glass and marble but into a living stage of Brussels’ past and present. Here, beneath the shimmering dome, royalty, artists, chocolate lovers, and dreamers have all found their way. It is a unique building that will impress you even more if you know its history and importance for the city’s cultural and social history.
Sixteen years after ascending the throne, King Leopold I of Belgium unveiled his vision for a modern Brussels in 1847 – the magnificent Royal Galleries St-Hubert, a testament to the city’s ambition and a showcase of European sophistication.
A turbulent construction
The idea to build a gallery was conceived in 1836 by the architect Jan Pierre Cluysenaer, who persuaded King Leopold I that this building would represent the riches of the new Belgium. Following expropriations and the district’s demolition, the poor and notorious alleys, especially Rue Saint-Hubert, had to vanish to accomplish the construction. The project’s financial and administrative components alone took nine years. The building owners were hesitant to vacate their properties. The results of their protests were occasionally dramatic. Instead of agreeing to be evacuated while the nearby houses were being demolished, one barber even went so far as to slit his own throat with his razor.
But when finished, the galleries became both the first and one of the most impressive and elegant shopping arcades in Europe. In a style that gracefully blends neo-classicism and neo-renaissance, the galleries shimmer with the warm glow of ornate gold leaf, punctuated by the rich, deep crimson of velvet drapes and the sleek, polished black of cast-iron accents. The lower walls are clad in cool, smooth marble, its surface subtly veined with delicate grey patterns.
They are divided into three sections with glass roofs: Gallerie du Roi, Gallerie de la Reine, and Gallerie des Princes. The galleries featured stores, theatres, cafes, eateries, and residences.
Today, the shops have not changed significantly. You will encounter and be struck by the ornate shopfronts of renowned international and Belgian luxury brands, jewellery stores, art galleries, and high-end food outlets.
Becoming a social and cultural hub
From the start, the galleries developed into a location for the citizens of Brussels to be noticed, mingle, and participate in all the newest trends. A large crowd was drawn to the Royal Galleries of Saint Hubert by its upscale cafes, premium brands, and cultural venues. These included the Théâtre du Vaudeville, the Cinéma des Galeries and the Taverne du Passage. The final one, known as the Cafe des Arts until 1892, was a gathering spot for the writers and painters of the French immigrants living in Brussels.
Without a doubt, Victor Hugo was the most well-known of those emigrants. However, he was not expelled from France. As an advocate of democracy, social justice, and the repeal of the death sentence, he was a fierce opponent of Napoleon III. He fled France for this reason, arriving in Brussels in 1851 and staying at a house on Grand Place for seven months. He then returned to Brussels in 1861, finding refuge and inspiration in the city’s vibrant atmosphere to compose his most renowned work, Les Misérables. One can imagine the bustling energy of the galleries, a microcosm of Parisian life, perhaps subtly influencing his portrayal of the city’s underbelly.
The Cobra group’s painters and artists used the same cafe frequently in the late 1940s. From 1948 to 1951, the European avant-garde art collective Cobra (commonly abbreviated as CoBrA) was in activity. Christian Dotremont came up with the name in 1948 using the initials of the capital cities of the members’ home countries: Copenhagen (Co), Brussels (Br), and Amsterdam (A). Although the group only existed for a few years, during that period, it accomplished a number of significant goals. They saw experimenting as a sign of unbridled freedom and a means of departing from popular art movements, such as the “sterile” abstraction and the “detested” naturalism.
A significant place in the history of cinema
However, the galleries are also connected with a significant moment in the history of cinema. On March 1, 1896, a group of people assembled in the offices of the newspaper La Quotidien at Galeries St Hubert 7. They were the first in Belgium to watch seven short films produced by the Lumière brothers, Auguste and Louis. The films had already been screened in Paris the year before and marked a significant milestone in the history of cinema, as it was the first public showing of the new motion picture technology in Europe. Within months, Brussels became ground zero for a cinematic revolution.
The screening at Galeries St Hubert marked the first stop on the Lumière brothers’ European tour, igniting a passion for moving pictures that would forever change entertainment in the city and beyond. The public reaction was likely one of astonishment and wonder, a glimpse into a world previously unimaginable. In 1996, to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the initial movie screening, a plaque was placed outside the former newspaper office in Galerie du Roi.
Τropismes Bookshop
Tropismes, a French-speaking bookshop, was established in 1984 in Gallerie des Princes and carries on the galleries’ long-standing cultural history. Whether or not they are book enthusiasts, locals and tourists alike consider it a point of reference in the city’s cultural life. It is regarded as one of the most beautiful bookshops in Europe, a literary sanctuary where a striking mezzanine seems to float above a sea of books.
Mirror walls create an illusion of endless space, reflecting the light that streams through the grand stucco ceilings and dances across the elegant golden columns. The enormous neon sign, a modern counterpoint to the classic architecture, casts a warm glow upon the shelves, inviting you to lose yourself in its pages. Three floors make up its collection, with a separate section for each theme: literature, pocketbooks, and thrillers on the ground floor; children’s books and comic books on the first floor; and specialised works on the humanities, history, cooking, travel and leisure, philosophy, art, music, and film in the basement.
Maison Dandoy
The galleries also conceal some real culinary gems. In addition to the shops of some of Belgium’s most renowned chocolatiers, you can visit a branch of the historic pastry brand Maison Dandoy, which boasts a rich history spanning 150 years; here, you can sample their famed waffles and biscuits. Despite being a relatively new location of the well-known brand, the store is definitely worth a visit if you want to learn more about the country’s culinary history.
A must-visit in Brussels
A magnet for visitors to the city, a meeting point for locals and an important landmark of Brussels architecture, the galleries are a must-visit monument. From their turbulent beginnings to the present day, the Royal Galleries St-Hubert stand as a testament to Brussels’ enduring spirit, a haven where refined beauty, exceptional gastronomy, and cultural significance intertwine. Visit both during the day when the shops are open and in the evening and be filled with travel memories and stunning images.
If you are looking for more cultural stories, visit our website’s Art and Culture page.
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Antonis Tsapepas
Antonis Tsapepas is co-founder of Voyagers Voice and founder of By Food and Travel, a website for people who want to travel and taste new things. Travelling is a way to escape, learn, discover unforgettable places, meet interesting people and try gastronomy from all over the world.