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What is the first place you think of when someone mentions Turkey? Of course, it’s going to be Istanbul. Don’t get me wrong; I love Istanbul. But what if I told you you could go to a spot in Turkey, get all the cultural experiences, be treated like royalty, enjoy guaranteed warm weather, and have fantastic food? Well, look no further than Mardin.
When I booked my trip to Turkey, I had no plans to go to Mardin. In total honesty, I had never heard of the place and had no idea where it was. But if you know me as an explorer, I love to wander off the beaten path. Usually going with the flow, with no concrete plans.
When I had had enough of Istanbul after a couple of days into my trip back in September 2020, I started asking locals, particularly travel agents, about where I could travel to next whilst I was in Turkey. Everyone I spoke to kept telling me I had to travel southeast of the country. A few places kept coming up, and one of them was Mardin.
One agent said, ‘Sir, please, you must visit Mardin.’ Another agent said, ‘I am telling you, you won’t want to leave when you are there! It is like a movie set.’
And the manager of the hotel I was staying at, Hakim, said he was from there and told me, ‘Mardin is the epitome of Turkey.’
When I arrived in Mardin, it was every bit as stunning as the pictures I had seen. The most extraordinary part for me was my hotel. I stayed at the Zinciriye Hotel in Medeniyet Sehri, next to Zinciriye Medresesi, overlooking the old town, which included the Great Mosque. Mardin Castle towers also stood above my hotel on a rocky mountain. When I went, I couldn’t enter the castle, but I could walk towards it using the steep path that leads you to it, starting from the Zinciriye Medresesi.
Whilst wandering around, it was hard to communicate with people because English was almost non-existent amongst the locals. That could be an issue for anyone going. But I managed to find one guy and asked whether many visit Mardin throughout the year. He said not too many people visit, as it is unknown to the world.
I didn’t see a single other backpacker or tourist during the first few hours of walking around. I loved it because I felt as though I had the whole place to myself.
I mentioned that one of the travel agents told me Mardin is like being on a movie set. Well, he wasn’t wrong. I kept imagining Aladdin would pop up with Princess Jasmine. In fact, I met some lovely crew members filming a Netflix series, The Gift, at a rooftop restaurant. I met them when one of the guys helped me by interpreting my English into Turkish as I struggled to get a point across to a server.
When I asked what he did for a living, he said he was a filmmaker and that they were shooting the final season of the series in Mardin. I have seen the full series, and I highly recommend it for anyone who might be intrigued.
Why visit Mardin
A few factors explain why I believe Mardin is a must-visit in Turkey.
The city has often been considered an open-air museum because of its historic architecture. As I wandered through the cobblestoned streets and narrow alleyways, I could not help but notice the landmark houses where residents lived. It reminded me of the medinas in Marrakech, Morocco. Or the homes in Santa Marta, a favela in Rio de Janeiro. The architecture has been preserved superbly considering how many centuries ago they were assembled. As I said, the old town is protected under conservation. Being surrounded by these buildings felt like I was part of great history.
Another highlight for me was visiting Ulu Cami (the Great Mosque). The mosque was built around the 11th or 12th century, as plaques placed there date back to the Seljuk, Artuqid, and Ottoman periods.
As I entered through the mosque gates, I was welcomed by an expansive courtyard. The minaret is unique in its design, and like most mosques, there was a calm presence. The only thing that you will need to get used to if you are staying in the old town is the call for prayer at the break of dawn. Trust me, the only part of my visit I didn’t particularly appreciate was that it disturbed my sleep at 5am each morning.
What to Expect at the Bazaar
Mardin’s bazaar was unique. The area spills down the slope, off the main street of Cumhuriyet Caddesi. Many of the lanes can’t be accessed by car, as some traders still use donkeys for transport. This is an integral part of the city that I soaked up. I stopped at local shops and had baklava and other sweet pastries with Turkish tea. The hospitality was exceptional; I felt like royalty.
I even decided to get a cut-throat shave. I chose this because I remember watching an episode of the BBC Travel Show, where Henry Golding made it look so good and presented it as something all men should do when they visit Turkey.
It was a thriving local bazaar, from vegetable and fresh-produce sellers to fresh spices on offer. Shops sold everything from clothes and bed frames to kitchenware. Traditional craft workshops featured woodworkers, metalworkers, and other artisans. It was a fascinating place to stroll through.
What food is on offer?
There are many places to dine; as I mentioned, I met crew members at a restaurant. Well, this was the Seyr-i Merdin restaurant & cafe. You can get a bird’s-eye view of all of Mardin from that rooftop. The food there was decent; I wouldn’t say it was amazing. But you have to go there just for the view.
Another place I was told to dine in was Bagdadi. The receptionist at my hotel told me that it was the ‘Best restaurant in town.’ And he wasn’t wrong. I liked it so much that I went back another evening. The service was excellent, and the food was exquisite. I also highly recommend sitting outside to soak up the atmosphere. A fantastic restaurant, and I recommend ordering the ‘Bagdadi Tavuk’ if you go.
My budgeting requirement
In terms of costs, Mardin is very cost-effective. My hotel stay was $12 a night, which included breakfast. I booked this via Booking.com. For a top hotel, this was very economical. And this had nothing to do with the pandemic, which was going on at the time of my visit. As I said, the city isn’t overflowing with tourists in normal times.
Bagdadi restaurant cost me around $15 for a sit-down meal, including drinks, starters, a main course, and dessert. It could be a bit more today as I write this. However, I would be surprised if you’d pay more than that in Mardin for a top restaurant. The rooftop restaurant Seri-y-Merdin, on the other hand, cost me about $4, which included a few drinks and my meal. There were other decent restaurants & cafes I could have gone to and eaten for even cheaper, but because everything is catered to locals anyway, it didn’t matter where I ate. Even Bagdadi catered to locals rather than tourists.
There weren’t any costs to visit any of the big attractions, as the city is an open-air museum. Apart from buying souvenirs, which I haggled down to a reasonable price, the food and the cutthroat shave, you’ll struggle to spend your money.
In total, I spent less than $100 over three days, including my hotel stay.
How long should I spend in Mardin?
What made the place special for me was the people. They were very generous and welcoming. I might add that since the Syrian War in 2011, many Syrian refugees have fled their homes and settled in Turkey. Mardin is one of those places, as it borders Syria. I met quite a few of them, and they were all pleasant.
I didn’t have a time limit on how long I was going to spend in Mardin. I went with how I felt, as I usually do on all my travels. I spent three days there, which was enough time for me to see everything. I did a mix of exploring, relaxing, and enjoying the surroundings.
When I went, the weather was glorious. Temperatures rose as high as 35C/95F, with no humidity. Perfect conditions if you love the heat.
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Shebs Alom
Shebs is an award-winning Broadcaster, Travel Writer, Podcaster, and Co-Executive Producer. His work has been featured in the BBC, MSN, Apple News, The Times, The Express, Travel Magazine, Travel Weekly, and Marriott Bonvoy, to name a few.