A cruise to Alaska is more than the Inside Passage and the stunning Glacier National Park. Steve Newman explains how you can get under the skin of one of the most fascinating places on Earth.
The Aleutian Islands, a place whispered about more than visited by UK cruise ships, are a remote and rugged chain of volcanic islands stretching deep into the North Pacific. And let’s be honest, they are not that well-known either.
I was intrigued when I took my Alaska and British Columbia cruise with HX Expeditions, which included The Inside Passage, into this rarely seen realm. The chance to encounter whales, glaciers and bears in such an untamed landscape was too compelling to pass up, and I have to say it is one of the best cruises I have ever done.
Comfort Meets Expedition
The islands stretch out from the southwest corner of Alaska deep into the North Pacific, but do not think an expedition cruise means you are roughing it. Far from it, the Roald Amundsen is a top-notch vessel with sauna, gym and some of the best food I have encountered at sea. The ship also has hybrid-powered propulsion, which means you are doing your bit for the environment too, whilst you are on board.
You will need to be in an average state of fitness for this cruise because getting ashore is part of the adventure itself. We are often transferred from the ship to land in Zodiacs, and you will often wade through the water on landings. The effort, however, is what makes these landings so rewarding. And you don’t need to worry about getting cold, HX ensures you are fully prepared with waterproof boots throughout the cruise and a high-quality stormproof expedition jacket, which you can take home with you after the trip. Nice little bonus.
These Zodiac trips were the undisputed highlight of the cruise, putting us right in the heart of the action. On one occasion, our boat was all but engulfed by the raft of sea otters, lying sedately on their backs, some with cubs on their chests. It was a serene and magnificent moment that felt a million miles from the world we had left behind.
Every day has either a Zodiac excursion to a small island, a nature cruise, or a landing at a port via tender, or a berthing at the town’s harbour, where you can take some of the included excursions if you wish.
Beyond the Harbour
Our cruise started in Vancouver, a city with so much charm. Our first stop was Granville Island, which was a delightful place to explore. We spent hours wandering through a hotchpotch of quirky galleries and studios, and the bustling public market, sampling local produce and artisan treats, which should not be missed. Take time also to visit Gastown, where we were entertained by street artists and live music, pausing to admire its Big Ben tower steam clock!
As we sailed northwards, Orcas appeared off the bow and Bald Eagles flew overhead. In fact, this became an everyday experience with the species changing as we moved ever culminating with the albatrosses and the Sperm Whale we encountered as we sailed over the deepest part of the world’s oceans, The Aleutian Trench.
Some of us observed Brown Bears ambling slowly along the beach as they watched no more than sixty yards away from our Zodiac and seals popping their heads up above the ice flows with the three glaciers of Icy Bay as a backdrop.
From Passenger to Participant – Science and Culture
Onboard, the dedicated science centre transforms you from a passenger into a contributor. You can choose how much the wildlife and the world’s ecosystems play a part, as you can actively research, examine what you have found and add it to the global data bank of knowledge. You can also go out in the Science Boat to take water samples or take part in the underwater drone sessions to look at the life under the waves.
The team of scientists, historians, and cultural experts cover a range of cultural, historical, and scientific disciplines, all aimed at enriching your experience whilst on board by matching what you see on the excursions with activities in the educational programme.
Many lectures and coffee chats offered a wealth of knowledge, but none were as impressive as those given by Norma, a member of the Yup’ik Tribe. According to archaeological evidence, their people have lived along the Bering Sea coast of Western Alaska for over 3,000 years. Norma shared her culture and heritage with us throughout the cruise through moving stories of her grandparents, traditional dance, and song. Her presence onboard was a true highlight and a masterstroke by HX in bringing a meaningful cultural connection to the journey.
Culture, History, and Wildlife on Shore
The opportunity for cultural immersion continues on land with a pair of excursions to see a wooden Clan House and a striking collection of totem poles, where you can learn the stories, meaning, and purpose behind these powerful carvings. There is also an included excursion to The Museum of the Aleutians, which has a mission to collect, preserve, and share the rich cultural legacy of the Aleutian Islands Region. The museum hosts an actively growing collection of artefacts covering Native culture, Russian, American, WWII, and local history and is not to be missed.
In Nome, I felt the tundra’s vastness as I spotted Musk Ox and tried my hand at gold panning in the cold river water. The contrast was stark in Sitka, where I visited the Bald Eagle Centre, where we watched a video and experienced one of these magnificent birds close up. We also visited the deserted village of Unga, a fascinating trip, but I drew the line at joining those who took a plunge in the waters of the bay!
There are many additional excursions which I strongly advise you to book before you leave for the cruise, as they can fill up quickly. I took a hike up to the 2nd World War fortifications at Dutch Harbour, the only part of the United States to be occupied by the Japanese during the war.
The challenges of an expedition
You cannot always guarantee you will see the bears as well; on our visit, not all the Zodiacs saw Brown Bears up close (but not too close so as not to distress the animals). This happened to me, but I was able to see them from the ship with my binoculars, which are an absolute must for you to bring as they will enrich your cruise tremendously.
Do remember that this is an expedition cruise, and the weather can change and make some Zodiac landings impossible. If that does happen, the expedition team always have a plan B up their sleeve.
As an example, we were told that more people have stood on the top of Everest than have landed on Matthew Island in the Bearing Sea, which also holds America’s rarest bird, as the swell is usually so high.
On our cruise, the weather gave us blue skies and flat calm seas, and we could explore for two hours via the Zodiacs—serious bragging rights around the dinner table.
This cruise was an unforgettable experience, but your memories will stay with you as a photo album of the trip is sent to you a few days later. With so much going on, consider it for your next cruise.
Steve was a guest of HX Expeditions – https://www.travelhx.com/en-gb/
If you are passionate about hiking in the wild, check out our Naturalist Journeys page to discover other exciting destinations.
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Steve Newman
Steve Newman is a former primary school teacher who gave it all up to become a freelance travel writer and photographer. When he’s not exploring the world, reviewing hotels or interviewing fascinating people, he’s birdwatching in the hill and on the beaches of his beloved Northumberland.