Under the gentle caress of the South Carolina sun, Charleston unfolded its narrative, blending history’s whispers with the rhythm of tradition and presenting a harmonious symphony of Southern charm. As an Asian traveller, my journey to this captivating destination evolved into an immersive exploration — not merely an expedition into its storied past but a deliberate quest to untangle the intricate threads of racial inclusivity woven into the very fabric of this historic city.
What lay ahead exceeded anticipation — an extensively woven symphony of warmth, a dance of meaningful relationships, and a revelation that destroyed every preconceived assumption cemented in my travel-weary mind.
Southern Welcome: A Vibrant and Welcoming Charleston
My visit was to see what it was like for people of diverse backgrounds to travel to Charleston, particularly from an Asian perspective. What struck me the most during my visit was the people’s warm and welcoming nature.
I felt this moment when I stepped off the plane at Charleston International Airport with an overwhelming sense of hospitality. Douglas, who picked me up from the airport, uttered, “Welcome to Charleston; we are so pleased to have you here. You’re going to love it.” With his sweet southern drawl and inviting smile, he instantly made me feel like I belonged, like a long-lost friend returning home.
Discovering Charleston
On my very first day of exploring, Karen McDaniel, a Caucasian tour guide from Lowcountry History Strolls, who has lived in Charleston her whole life, provided me with an excellent walking tour of the downtown area. She emphasised to me, “The stories of our deep past are acknowledged, which is important for any community to move forward, and in many ways, used as a foundation for a more diverse and unified future. We welcome everyone here no matter where they are from.” Over the decades, the city evolved into a place where diverse backgrounds and cultures converged, fostering an atmosphere of inclusion and acceptance.
However, unless I missed it, downtown Charleston didn’t have a cosmopolitan feel, especially on a Sunday when I saw practically the entire community get dressed to go to church. Women adorned stunning dresses, some with lavish boutique hats, accompanied by their husbands or partners in elegant lounge suits. Additionally, I noticed a scarcity of visitors with multicultural backgrounds during my stay, which will change over the coming years.
A destination people are flocking to
To emphasise what I mean, whilst having dinner at one of the best seafood restaurants in town, Tempest, Kevin and Sally, who were visiting from Los Angeles, told me what drew them both to the location, especially as they were house hunting. “Our kids have gone off to college, and we’ve been thinking about moving, and thought, why not Charleston? You’re right by the sea; the weather is great all year around, the food is exceptional, and it’s much cheaper than living in L.A.”
Charleston revealed itself as a city in transformation. It wasn’t just Kevin and Sally; I met so many people from across the United States who have flocked to this adorable haven, drawn by its rich heritage, cultural vibrancy, and the promise of a welcoming community. The rent increase is one detriment to that with so many flocking in, but you have to give and take as the long-term outlook on Charleston looks great.
My own journey as an Asian traveller was a testament to this transformation, as I had misconceptions about the South in general. One of the many memorable occasions I had during my stay was the vibrant ambience of a Gather Charleston event I attended. The air buzzed with laughter and the mingling aromas of diverse cuisines. Just chatting to the locals, their faces animated with culinary delight, graciously shared stories that wove the Charleston’s rich culture. As flavours danced on taste buds, intimate conversations unfolded like a symphony, revealing the heartbeat of a community united by a shared love for food and the art of storytelling.
Conversations for Change: Insights from BLM Leader Marcus McDonald
To get a deeper understanding of the Charleston community, I was fortunate enough to have spent time with Marcus McDonald, a true leader in the Charleston community. McDonald is the driving force behind Charleston’s Black Lives Matter movement, and his dedication to social justice was genuinely inspiring.
McDonald and Tyler Page Wright, a renowned tour guide in Charleston, graciously took me on tour around parts of Charleston, sharing stories and insights about the city’s history from a unique perspective, with recent incidents, including McDonald getting arrested and having his trombone broken by the police during a peaceful march.
We spoke for hours about Charleston having a significant history tied to the transatlantic slave trade, which played a crucial role in shaping the city’s development and economy. The city became a major port for the importation of enslaved Africans, and the institution of slavery had a profound impact on the social, economic, and cultural fabric of Charleston.
During the 18th and 19th centuries, Charleston’s economy relied heavily on cultivating rice, indigo, and later cotton, labour-intensive and profitable crops. To meet the demand for labour, enslaved Africans were forcibly brought to the city and sold at markets such as the Old Slave Mart, which operated until the mid-19th century. Charleston’s role in the slave trade made it one of the wealthiest cities in the American South.
McDonald’s ancestors were part of the slave trade, and I was dumbfounded that he didn’t know where his roots were from, which is the case for a lot of African Americans. “That’s the sad thing, as I would love to know where my bloodline comes from, as I am sure most black Americans that were shipped across from Africa,” McDonald explained. Undoubtedly, one day, with science and technology ever-evolving, that can be discovered.
The city’s historic architecture and plantations serve as reminders of this troubling period, with some sites, like the mesmerising Aiken-Rhett House and the McLeod Plantation, preserving the history of slavery for educational purposes.
Unveiling Untold Stories: International African American Museum
In recent years, there has been increased awareness and efforts to acknowledge and interpret Charleston’s history with slavery, including establishing the must-see International African American Museum, which opened its doors on the 27th of June, 2023. I spent a few hours there and could still return to learn more about the intriguing history.
You will also notice McDonald’s trombone is in the museum, along with a video of him talking about the incident, as I mentioned earlier, with the police. I asked him how the trombone had ended up in the museum, and he told me, “When the museum was opening up, they wondered whether they could buy it from me. I decided to sell it as it’s a significant recent history.”
The museum aims to tell the comprehensive story of African-American history in Charleston and the broader context of the African diaspora.
Celebrating Diversity
Meeting Marcus McDonald provided a profound insight into the city’s challenges, yet he expressed a love for Charleston despite the ongoing difficulties. His perspective added depth to my understanding of the local dynamics.
Additionally, I had the pleasure of meeting with Guang Ming Whitley, an Asian American councilwoman, who revealed a contrasting narrative. She shared a positive experience of being welcomed in Charleston. “I felt at ease when I moved to Charleston, and I proudly call it my home. I was also elected as the first Asian-American to be a councilwoman in Mount Pleasant, where I live,” Ming Whitley voiced.
Further, Dena Fokas Moses, the President of the CIC (Inter-Religious Council), emphasised the council’s mission to unite communities of diverse backgrounds. Her role is voluntary, and she explained the council’s commitment to inclusivity, welcoming individuals with hijabs, turbans, etc. and fostering a sense of unity. An example she gave me was the upcoming Thanksgiving.
“Thanksgiving is coming, and this year, it will be held at the Hindu temple; it’s inclusive for everyone and with conflicts making headlines, Jews and Muslims will be coming together; it is an opportunity to gather together and love one another.”
This insight into community-building initiatives demonstrated a commitment to breaking down barriers and promoting understanding among different groups.
In my encounters with them, a spectrum of perspectives emerged, reflecting the complex shades of Charleston’s social fabric. From the challenges articulated by a BLM leader to the positive experiences of an Asian American councilwoman and the inclusive efforts of a volunteer-driven inter-religious council, it became evident that Charleston is a city navigating through its history and striving for inclusivity and understanding in the present. These diverse voices contribute to a richer understanding of Charleston’s evolving identity and the ongoing work towards a more unified community.
A Southern Symphony of Inclusivity
Charleston isn’t just a city; it’s a resounding symphony of inclusivity, where each note, every voice, and the rich cultures harmonise to compose a welcoming and diverse community. My journey through its streets, guided by the stories of individuals like Marcus McDonald and Guang Ming Whitley, transcended mere exploration—it became a deep revelation.
In this city, any echoes of concern about racism dissipated in the warmth of its residents’ embrace. That is not to say that there isn’t racism; of course, there is – in my hometown now, if I walk down the streets with my mum, who wears a hijab, we certainly get looks from specific individuals, and it would have been interesting to see what looks I would have got if she was with me in Charleston.
However, saying all of that, Charleston stands not just as a historical gem but as a contemporary sanctuary, where the strength of community and the embrace of tradition create a shelter for all.
As I reflect on my September 2023 trip, Charleston occupies a sacred space in my heart. It’s more than charming streets and historic landmarks; it’s a city that defies stereotypes, radiates warmth and exemplifies the celebration of diversity. With its deep roots in history and a hopeful gaze towards the future, Charleston has become an integral chapter in my life’s narrative—a testament to the enduring power of inclusivity.
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Shebs Alom
Shebs is a Broadcaster, writer and Podcaster. He is a member of the British Guild of Travel Writers. He’s hosted a breakfast called Rise & Shine on the only dedicated travel radio station in Africa, Gallivant Radio. Shebs also hosts a travel podcast, Take a Wander With Shebs, which can be seen on his YouTube channel and heard on all major podcasting platforms. Shebs is also the Editor & Commercial Officer for Voyagers Voice. He also runs Shebs The Wanderer Ltd.